Wednesday, November 21, 2018

questions and possible answers and links

I have a LOT of unanswered questions about installing the suspension rails. i'm trying to look all over the internet to find answers.


here's what I've learned so far:

-no screws are included to mount the suspension rail to the wall, nor does it say what kind of screws or what size of screws to use. but people online suggest drilling pilot holes in the studs for these screws since they all went with longer stronger screws.
-screws the internet people have used: 2" # 10 wood screws, or 1/4" x 3 1/4" lag screws
-one site suggested a specialized screw that's ideally suited for fastening kitchen cabinets to the wall goes by different names: cabinet screw, washer-head screw, washer-head cabinet screw, or button-head screw. Its large-diameter head bears down firmly on the cabinet's hanging rail, ensuring a solid installation. Attach the cabinets to the wall using No. 8 or No. 10 screws, approximately 3½ inches long.

-the only information it gives about how far down from the ceiling to hang the rail is a minimum of 6/8". (technically that's 3/4 not 6/8, cuz thats how fractions work, thank you elementary school.) it doesn't say if that's the right height for the upper trim pieces they offer. and poking around online shows that everyone hangs it at a different height. some try to get it as close to the ceiling as possible, with no trim. some hang much farther down. I've found no clear answer.

-all the internet sites say the holes on the suspension rail will NOT line up with all your studs. someone posited that perhaps the holes are metric rather than inches, and that's why they don't line up. so this makes screwing it to the wall more complicated. do you trust wall anchors to hold up the heavy weight of those cabinets and everything else that will be put inside them? or do you drill thru the metal rail into the stud? one website says ikea recommends a screw in the suspension rail every 12 inches but I can't find this anywhere in the instructions or on their website.

-I haven't found information on how to install the tall panel on the side of the fridge next to the over-the-fridge cabinet. what dimensions to I cut it to? how do I attach it to the cabinets?

-I don't know what size screws to attach the cabinets to each other after they're hung, or if these screws came with the cabinets (turns out those screws are included in the cabinet assembly hardware). people on the internet say you MUST pre-drill these holes in the cabinets or things will get ugly. some even recommend countersinking the holes as well. screw the cabinets together before putting the gray clips on by the suspension rail. if there is a gap and you can't get rid of it, there could be a hump in the wall. if necessary you can pop the white plastic pieces off the bottom back panel.

-how to cut the filler panels to size, and how to attach them to the cabinets? I'd like to know what kind of saw blade to use to prevent chipping. do I use a table saw or skill saw? one website says use precision blade. one says a finishing blade. and to tape the area you're cutting and around the ends to reduce splinters or blowout, with painters tape. suggestion to predrill holes for cover panel attaching. and using 2x2 screwed to the backside and screwed into the cabinet. make filler panel flush with cabinet? or flush with drawer fronts and doors? cut the filler panels good side down when using skill saw because it cuts on the up stroke.

-how to determine how wide the filler panels need to be at the inner corner of the peninsula. must clear drawer HANDLES as well, not just the drawers at that inner corner.

-I need to look up about how to install the undercabinet lighting, because multiple people say it needs to be installed when the upper cabinet is being installed because the wires need to run up the back side of the cabinet. but!! people have claimed they're not very good lights, they die quickly, and need replacing often. and that sometimes they buzz. so maybe I want to return them and get something from the home improvement stores?

-washers for suspension rail - horizontal or vertical? instruction pictures show horizontal, but pictures of everyone installing them show it vertical.

-install legs before or after hanging? use the 4 individual legs for each cabinet or use the 'sharing legs' under the edges where two cabinets meet? (before, but at shortest height so you can adjust them down to the proper height once in place on the rail)

-install drawer slides before or after base cabinets installed?

-screws in the hinges allow you to adjust drawers and door fronts up or down left or right.

-building platform for peninsula - will be the platform for BOTH those end cabinets since the one against the wall will be sideways out to the dining room rather than facing forward to hang on the rail.

-which means that upper end cabinet will also need the rail hangers removed and how to mount that if its going to face sideways to the dining room. or maybe just make it face forward.

-attaching the cover panel on the back of the peninsula cabinet - recommended to cut a sheet of 3/8" plywood to fill the gap between the cardboard back of the cabinet, and the actual back of the cabinet sides and bottom panels. then when you screw the cover panel in place you'll have something to screw to. will want to remove the railing hangers from those two cabinets! factory edge to the floor, cut edge up against the underside of the counters. 1 1/8" screws for cabinet side cover panels.

-countertop brackets add 1/8 inch, may need short little 1/8 inch spacers/clips to add to tops of cabinet sides to level off countertop. or 'fixa' brackets which go most of the depth of the side panels. may also want to use fixa brackets as cleat for support for the back of countertops.

-sink cabinet might have to change out the bar at the top front. (it comes with the different brackets to change to)


other tips:
-home depot charges $5 per cut to cut the suspension rails rather than hacksawing them.
-oscillating tool to cut holes in the cabinets for plumbing or exhaust vent, or dads jigsaw

-when drilling holes to install the drawer handles, don't drill *thru* the upper drawer front into the inner/hidden upper drawer front.

-easier to install door and drawer handles while flat/overhanging on a table before they're put in place in the cabinets.

-discusses making sure cabinets are square, or the doors wont line up right, which the ikea instructions dont mention at all. but there are adjustments you can make with the drawer fronts and door hinges.

-web says buy the ikea jig to install handles. 'handle measuring tool'. install handles before putting drawers in.

some helpful links:

pictures of the framework made to attach the peninsula/island to the floor
https://pinklittlenotebook.com/creating-an-ikea-kitchen-island/

installing the suspension rail
http://www.kellbot.com/ikea-sektion-cabinet-install-day-1/

showing how they attached the filler pieces with 2x2's
http://www.realtyhousewife.com/1439/ikea-install-parto-quatro-finishing-touches/

on putting crown molding up above
https://justagirlandherblog.com/how-to-install-kitchen-cabinet-crown-molding/

this series by kody Harvey is extremely detailed. this one has helpful info on cutting filler panels
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4K_LE9LBKOQ

this one has info on adjusting drawer fronts and doors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWZlz_FTK5k

shows building a frame between the cabinet over the fridge and the wall, so that the cabinet comes out flush with the fridge rather than back against the wall
https://www.ikeahackers.net/2014/06/built-in-for-refrigerator.html

https://www.instructables.com/id/What-to-Expect-When-Youre-Expecting-IKEA/


kitchen hacks:

stacked spice organizer
https://www.ikeahackers.net/2018/02/spice-organizer-two-ikea-spice-racks.html

https://www.ikeahackers.net/2011/05/a-sleek-wall-mounted-spice-rack.html

backsplash alternatives
https://www.ikeahackers.net/2014/08/easy-stainless-steel-kitchen.html
https://www.ikeahackers.net/2015/04/kitchen-splashback-made-tanem-door.html
https://www.ikeahackers.net/2012/11/customized-glass-backsplash.html
https://www.ikeahackers.net/2011/10/ikea-placemat-backsplash.html
https://www.ikeahackers.net/2013/12/easy-backsplash.html
https://www.ikeahackers.net/2012/03/anders-abstrakt-splash-guard.html

appliance garage
https://www.ikeahackers.net/2014/11/the-mother-of-appliance-garages-2.html

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